MATERIAL INNOVATORS & RESEARCHERS
QI Química Inteligente (indigo dyeing) | Luciano Pinheiro (earthware dyeing) | Lia Coelho (goat cashmere research) | Nayane Araujo (biopolymer development) | Aiper (BioRed pigment technology).
Indigofera suffruticosa: natural indigo dye
2023
Clayton Roberto da Costa (Química Inteligente) in collaboration with Prof. Dr. Mônica TejoCavalcanti and Josivane Caiano da Silva (Assentamento Santa Catarina, Paraíba)
Natural indigo dye derived from Indigofera suffruticosa
This project explores the cultivation and textile applications of Indigofera suffruticosa, commonly known as anileira or indigo, a plant traditionally used to produce natural blue dye. Developed in the Caatinga of Paraíba, the initiative includes cultivation at the Santa Catarina land reform settlement, where collaborator Josivane da Silva leads the cultivation of indigo alongside organic cotton. Bringing together scientific research, local knowledge, and agricultural practice, the project has also developed technologies through Química Inteligente that enable the production of natural indigo to be scaled for broader textile applications. This demonstrates how natural dyes can support contemporary textile production while creating new opportunities for rural communities in Brazilʼs semi-arid region.
Lent by the project team
Caatinga Materials Library
2023–2026
Luciano Pinheiro (born Bertioga, São Paulo)
Natural fibres, agroecological textiles, plant-based dyes, biomordants and botanical specimens from the Caatinga biome.
This material archive brings together fibres, textiles, natural dyes and plant specimens researched and developed by Luciano Pinheiro through an ongoing investigation into the material culture and biodiversity of Brazil's semi-arid Northeast. The selection includes agroecological cottons, silk and linen fabrics dyed with species native to the Caatinga, such as angico (Anadenanthera colubrina), emburana (Amburana cearensis) and jurema-preta (Mimosa tenuiflora), alongside fibres derived from plants including caroá, ouricuri and carnaúba.
Combining scientific research and traditional, the project explores the potential of native species as sources of colour, texture and innovation for sustainable fashion. By documenting and experimenting with local materials and regenerative production methods, Dr Pinheiro highlights the Caatinga not only as a unique ecosystem, but also as a living repository of knowledge, biodiversity and creative possibility.
Lent by the researcher
Brazilian Cashmere Fibre
2024 harvest
Brazilian Cashmere Project, Dr Lia Souza Coelho in collaboration with Anselmi
100% Brazilian cashmere fibre collected from goats raised in Northeastern Brazil
This sample represents the result of more than a decade of research led by zootechnist Dr Lia Souza Coelho, whose studies identified the presence of ultra-fine cashmere fibres in Brazilian goat breeds.
Collected in the Cariri region, within the semi-arid Northeast, the fibre challenges the conventional association of cashmere production with highland countries such as Mongolia, China and Nepal. Developed in partnership with the Brazilian knitwear company Anselmi, the project aims to establish the country's first Brazilian cashmere supply chain, creating new economic opportunities for small-scale goat farmers while adding value to a livestock tradition deeply rooted in the Caatinga. By transforming a locally
available resource into a high-value textile fibre, the initiative demonstrates how scientific research, rural livelihoods and sustainable innovation can reshape textile production in semi-arid regions.
Lent by the researcher
Biopolymer Pieces
2026
Nayane Araújo (born Crato, Ceará)
Gelatin-based biopolymers composed of glycerol and water, with texture and colour derived from coconut straw, aroeira and cashew
Based in the Cariri region of Ceará, Nayane Araújo researches biomaterials and innovation through the development of biodegradable alternatives for fashion and design. These handcrafted biopolymer samples are produced from gelatin, water and glycerol, enriched with materials associated with the Caatinga landscape, including coconut straw, aroeira and cashew. Each piece undergoes a slow process of casting and drying, resulting in unique variations of colour, texture and form. By transforming natural resources into experimental materials, Araújoʼs work explores new possibilities for sustainable production rooted in the biodiversity of Brazilʼs semi-arid
Northeast.
Lent by the researcher
Biored biopigment
2026
Aiper
Silk, cotton and viscose dyed and printed with Biored microbial biopigments
Biored is a microbial biopigment developed by Aiper through biotechnological fermentation as a sustainable alternative to conventional textile dyes. Applied to silk, cotton and viscose, the material explores new approaches to textile coloration while reducing dependence on synthetic
pigments. Developed from a fungus discovered during a bioprospecting expedition in the Caatinga of Piauí, the initiative connects biodiversity, scientific research and material innovation, highlighting the potential of Brazilʼs semi-arid ecosystems to inspire new solutions for the textile industry.
Lent by the brand
